Walking Hadrian’s Wall, Alone

Wow, it’s been a LONG time since I posted here. Time to dust off this blog and get back to some writing.

In ten days, I’ll be hopping on a plane, all by my lonesome self, and heading to Newcastle upon Tyne, England. From there, I’ll take a train to Carlisle, followed by a taxi (or maybe a bus) to Bowness-on-Solway.

Hopefully you’re heard of England. You may have heard of Newcastle upon Tyne. You have probably not heard of Bowness-on-Solway. (Hereafter, probably at the horror of the British, referred to as BoS).

After all, BoS is a village in Northwest England, within sight of the border of Scotland and a population of just over 1,000 people. So why in the world would I be traveling almost 5,000 miles literally by plane, train, and automobile to a small English village most Americans have never heard of? Alone no less.

To walk the 84 miles of Hadrian’s Wall, that’s why.

But WHY? Won’t walking 84 miles in 8 days… hurt? Probably. Well, certainly. But mostly just in the feet, calves, thighs, buttocks, back, and shoulders. I’m pretty sure my arms will be OK. And I fully believe it will be wonderful for my head.

What is Hadrian’s Wall?

Hadrian was the Roman emperor from AD 117 to 138. In 122, Hadrian visited the far north boundary of the Roman empire, which at that time was roughly along the border of what we know today as Scotland and England.

Emperor Hadrian, unlike previous Roman emperors, was less focused on expanding the empire and believed securing the borders of the existing empire was a prudent thing to do. 2,000 years ago, securing borders was done by building walls (so nothing much has changed in the last 2,000 years).

We don’t know exactly why Hadrian ordered the construction of a wall across northern England. An ancient historian said it was, “to separate the barbarians from the Romans.” Some modern historians say it was to help squash rebellions within the empire–and to keep conquered people inside Roman territory. Others say the wall, and its gates manned by Roman legions, were used to control and tax imports and exports. Most historians feel it was most likely a combination of off of these.

Whatever the reason, Hadrian sent three legions of Roman soldiers (about 15,000 men) to the northern border to build a stone wall 15 feet high and 10 feet wide, and 84 miles long. In addition, a large ditch was dug on the north side of the wall (except where crags or rivers made this unnecessary). In addition, placed at one-mile intervals there were gates protected by a small-guard post called a milecastle. Between each pair of milecastles lay two towers (turrets), creating a pattern of observation points every third of a mile. Eleven Roman forts were also constructed near the wall.

It’s estimated that it took at least six years to complete. A few years after the wall was completed, a large earthwork (called a Vallum) consisting of a flat bottom ditch with mounds on both sides was constructed south of the wall. The Vallum marked the edge of the military zone to the south.

So, why walk it?

Because it’s there? That’s somewhat in jest. Because, history! Come on, 2000 year old Roman ruins are cool. And yes, the wall is in ruin. The Roman Empire fell about 350 years after the wall was constructed, so it fell into disrepair. Much of the original stone used to construct the wall was removed over centuries to build castles and churches, farms and houses along its line, many of which remain to this day. Fortunately, conservation movements in the 18th and 19th centuries put a stop to that.

Hadrian’s Wall was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1987.

I’m a bit of a history nerd, and Hadrian’s Wall and the surrounding area are steeped in history. Romans, medieval knights, Robin Hood, the Jacobite revolts.. it just goes on and on. What better way to see, experience, and learn about the history of the area than walking though it. Walking where Roman soldiers lived and patrolled the wall. Seeing ancient Roman fortifications. Talking to the people that live there today.

And let’s not forget the stunningly beautiful countryside. And the pubs. (Did you know the UK has more than three times as many pubs as the U.S. has bars? 3.1 pubs per 10,000 people. Compare that to 0.2 bars per 10,000 in the U.S.).

Heck, one the the B&Bs I’ll be staying in was originally a pub founded in 1569. Another one dates back to 1804, with documented evidence that it was the first home in Britain to have a telephone installed and connected to an underground site. Where in 1877, the inventor of the telephone, Alexander Graham Bell, made the first experimental telephone call to the local coal mine. All eight of my B&Bs have their own unique history.

So, why do this alone?

When I tell my friends about this adventure, the usual response is, “Alone? Like solo? You’re doing this alone? WHY?? Are you out of your mind?”

First, I’ve always wanted to try some solo travel. Volumes have been written on the benefits of solo travel, and the idea has interested me for as long as I can remember. Second, the world’s greatest travel partner, my amazing wife, recently had a hip replacement and has zero desire to walk 7 – 14 miles a day, every day for over a week. Fortunately she understands my need for adventure (and checking off items on my bucket list) so I have her full support, even though she thinks I’m a bit crazy.

Reality check time! I am 63 years old. Arthritis is seeping into multiple joints. It’s hard to get up off the floor sometimes. I’m not getting any younger and if I want to complete a long solo hike, there’s no better time than now. YOLO–You Only Live Once. It’s time to do this thing.

So off I go.

It may rain buckets every day (I am well-prepared for that).
I’ll get blisters–ditto on the preparedness.
My back will suffer from carrying a backpack containing water, energy snacks, rain gear, an extra phone battery (for taking photos, not getting sucked into social media), a jacket (it’ll be in the high 30s – low 40s in the mornings), trekking poles, binoculars, a first aid kit… blah blah blah.
I may get lonely at times, and I’m OK with that. I’ll make new friends on the trail and in the pub stops.

I’ll learn history. I’ll think. I’ll make memories that last forever. I’ll meet sheep.

#JayWalkingHadriansWall

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Here is an interactive Google Map I made of my route and lodging (that red check mark is where I booked a 60 minute deep tissue massage at the end of the trek):

And here is the same map with an overlay of pubs on and near the trail. So basically, we’re looking at a 90 mile pub crawl 😀:

Header image by Carole Raddato. CC Licensed. Check out more of her great images!